I’m only a few weeks into surfing, but Shawn Zappo’s interview with Gerry Lopez at Surf + Abide resonated a bit with me:
I’ve always said that I thought that the first 20 years that I surfed were just kind of a test to see if I was really interested or not. It wasn’t until after that that I started to understand that there were some great lessons that I learned from surfing. I think that’s why surfing has such an appeal to many people. Just as in yoga, a great deal of the surfing experience, as well as life experience, kind of happens in this unseen realm, this place that you can’t really see or touch, but it’s influencing you all the time. In yoga the energy is called “Prana” but that same Prana is really evident in surfing. You might start your session tired or frustrated after a long day, but once you’re out there in the water and you get a good ride, you feel like you can surf for another six hours. You can get so much energy from one good ride.
That is something that is pretty intangible, but it’s real. It happens all the time. So when you connect with surfing or with yoga in that way, you really understand that there is a whole world there that you want to get in touch with and be a part of.
Twenty years of surfing and then he started learning lessons from it? Incredible. But the last line is something I can relate to; wanting to get in touch with the world in a different way.
On my second day in Chicama, we headed out for a sunset session in the bay. I had been a little discouraged from the strong currents and my lack of paddle power in the afternoon at the point. But the beauty of being out 75-100 meters in the ocean, with new friends and a tangerine sky shook me. I felt that peace. I knew then that this is something I want to keep exploring.